Bike hard to pedal?
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Your answers
When did you last pump the tyres up?
Lift each end of the bike in turn and spin the wheel by hand. The back wheel always stops a little sooner than the front: that’s normal.
Does either wheel rub, or stop after a turn or two?
What is it rubbing on?
Lift that end of the bike and spin the wheel.
Does the edge of the wheel wobble from side to side as it turns?
Gently squeeze pairs of spokes all the way round the wheel.
Is one broken, or much looser than the rest?
Hold the frame still and push the top of the wheel firmly from side to side.
Does the whole wheel clunk or move?
Look where the wheel fixes to the frame.
Is its lever folded flat against the frame (or, with no lever, do the axle nuts sit flat against it), and is the gap the same on each side of the tyre?
How big is the wobble?
Look where the wheel fixes to the frame.
Is its lever folded flat against the frame (or, with no lever, do the axle nuts sit flat against it), and is the gap the same on each side of the tyre?
Lift that end of the bike and spin the wheel.
Does the rim wobble from side to side?
Look where the wheel fixes to the frame.
Is its lever folded flat against the frame (or, with no lever, do the axle nuts sit flat against it), and is the gap the same on each side of the tyre?
Look at the chain.
How does it look?
Turn the pedals backwards by hand.
Do they turn smoothly?
When you ride, does your knee come up high, and stay very bent even at the bottom of each pedal turn?
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Every tyre loses a little air over time, so this is probably just a tyre that needs pumping.
If the bike feels wrong in any other way, don’t ride it. Pump it to between the two numbers printed on the side of the tyre. If it’s soft again within a day or two, it’s a slow puncture: start again with the tyre. Riding on soft tyres causes punctures and damages wheels.
- How sure we are
- Most likely
This is the usual cause of what you’ve described.
- What it needs
Nothing to book.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The mudguard has probably been knocked or worked loose.
Get it fixed soon. Until then, ride only if it feels right, and stop if it gets worse. If the mudguard or its thin metal stays are loose near the spokes, don’t ride it: one caught in the front wheel can stop it dead.
- How sure we are
- Most likely
This is the usual cause of what you’ve described.
- What to ask for
Lights, mudguards, rack or kickstand fitting
Don’t ride it
The wheel weakens quickly and a loose end can catch. Spokes come in many lengths, so a Spoke measures before you buy.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Probably a broken spoke.
- How sure we are
- Most likely
This is the usual cause of what you’ve described.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
It could also need: broken spoke replacement, wheel truing.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The wheel probably needs truing: tightening and loosening its spokes until it runs straight.
Get it fixed soon. Until then, ride only if it feels right, and stop if it gets worse. A wobble that touches the brake changes how it bites.
- How sure we are
- Most likely
This is the usual cause of what you’ve described.
- What to ask for
Wheel truing
Don’t ride it
A wheel that isn’t secure can come out. Walk it.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The wheel may not be fully in the frame, or its lever or axle nuts may not be tight.
- How sure we are
- One of a few causes
This fits what you’ve described, but so do other things. A Spoke will check before starting.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
Don’t ride it
A wheel that moves sideways in the frame isn’t safe until someone has looked at it.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The bearings in the middle of the wheel (the hub) may be loose or worn, or the axle broken.
- How sure we are
- Needs a look
We can’t tell from here. Someone needs to see the bike.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
It could also need: hub service.
Don’t ride it while it hits the frame or brake.
A new wheel isn’t on spoked yet.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Probably a bent rim, often from a pothole or a knock.
Truing rarely straightens a bent rim; a Spoke can tell whether it will, or whether the rim or wheel needs replacing.
- How sure we are
- One of a few causes
This fits what you’ve described, but so do other things. A Spoke will check before starting.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
It could also need: wheel truing.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The brake is probably off-centre or a pad is sticking; on disc brakes the disc may be slightly bent.
Get it fixed soon. Until then, ride only if it feels right, and stop if it gets worse. Don’t ride it if it doesn’t stop you well, if a rim brake pad touches the tyre (it can wear through it quickly), or if the wheel knocks when you push it sideways.
- How sure we are
- One of a few causes
This fits what you’ve described, but so do other things. A Spoke will check before starting.
- What it needs
The job: Brake adjustment
This is a high-risk job, so Spokes don’t offer it yet. Until they do, we recommend taking your bike to a bike shop.
It could also need: disc rotor truing or replacement (not on spoked yet).
Don’t ride it while the tyre touches the frame.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
A tyre too wide for the frame, a bent axle, or a bent frame.
- How sure we are
- Needs a look
We can’t tell from here. Someone needs to see the bike.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Something is touching the wheel as it turns.
Get it fixed soon. Until then, ride only if it feels right, and stop if it gets worse.
- How sure we are
- Needs a look
We can’t tell from here. Someone needs to see the bike.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
It could also need: wheel truing, lights, mudguards, rack or kickstand fitting.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Most often a disc brake pad dragging out of sight, or hub bearings that are too tight or dry.
Get it fixed soon. Until then, ride only if it feels right, and stop if it gets worse.
- How sure we are
- Needs a look
We can’t tell from here. Someone needs to see the bike.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
It could also need: hub service.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The chain probably needs cleaning and oiling.
Can wait. Get it fixed when it suits you. If the bike feels wrong in any other way, don’t ride it. If it has squeaked for months, it may be worn too: the Spoke can check.
- How sure we are
- Most likely
This is the usual cause of what you’ve described.
- What to ask for
Chain clean & lube
It could also need: chain waxing, drivetrain deep clean.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
A chain this rusty usually needs replacing, and the gears it runs on are often rusty and worn too.
A clean and oil sometimes saves it.
Get it fixed soon. Until then, ride only if it feels right, and stop if it gets worse. A badly rusted chain can snap: pedal gently. A Spoke can tell whether it can be saved and what to buy.
- How sure we are
- Most likely
This is the usual cause of what you’ve described.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
It could also need: chain replacement, chain clean & lube.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
It probably needs a proper clean, which also makes the gears change better.
Can wait. Get it fixed when it suits you. If the bike feels wrong in any other way, don’t ride it.
- How sure we are
- Most likely
This is the usual cause of what you’ve described.
- What to ask for
Drivetrain deep clean
It could also need: chain clean & lube, full clean and detail.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
A dry or rusty chain, worn bearings in the bottom bracket or pedals, or the freewheel.
Get it fixed soon. Until then, ride only if it feels right, and stop if it gets worse.
- How sure we are
- Needs a look
We can’t tell from here. Someone needs to see the bike.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
It could also need: chain clean & lube, bottom bracket service or replacement.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Your saddle is probably too low, which makes pedalling hard and strains your knees.
Can wait. Get it fixed when it suits you. If the bike feels wrong in any other way, don’t ride it. If you raise it yourself, never above the “minimum insertion” mark on the seatpost.
- How sure we are
- Most likely
This is the usual cause of what you’ve described.
- What to ask for
Saddle or seatpost fitting
It could also need: bike setup & fit (saddle height, reach, position).
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Nothing obvious from here.
Can wait. Get it fixed when it suits you. If the bike feels wrong in any other way, don’t ride it.
- How sure we are
- Needs a look
We can’t tell from here. Someone needs to see the bike.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Probably a slow puncture, or a leaking valve.
Get it fixed soon. Until then, ride only if it feels right, and stop if it gets worse. If you ride it before it’s fixed, pump it up first and check it holds. A leaking valve can’t be patched, so the tube is replaced instead.
- How sure we are
- One of a few causes
This fits what you’ve described, but so do other things. A Spoke will check before starting.
- What to ask for
Puncture repair (patch the existing tube)
It could also need: inner tube replacement.
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Find a Spoke soon
What usually causes it
- The chain probably needs cleaning and oiling.
- A chain this rusty usually needs replacing, and the gears it runs on are often rusty and worn too.
- It probably needs a proper clean, which also makes the gears change better.
- Your saddle is probably too low, which makes pedalling hard and strains your knees.
- Probably a slow puncture, or a leaking valve.
- Most often a disc brake pad dragging out of sight, or hub bearings that are too tight or dry.
- A dry or rusty chain, worn bearings in the bottom bracket or pedals, or the freewheel.
The checker gives general information from your answers. It isn’t an inspection and doesn’t tell you a bike is safe. Nothing here limits liability the law doesn’t let us limit, including for death or personal injury caused by negligence.