Bike clicking, creaking or rattling?
Your answers (0)
Your answers
When do you hear it?
What does it sound like?
With the bike standing still, hold a pedal arm near the pedal and push it firmly sideways, towards the bike and away. Do the same with the pedal itself, then both again on the other side.
Does anything move or clunk?
Does the noise stop if you pedal standing up, off the saddle?
Look at the chain.
How does it look?
Does the noise change or stop when you change gear?
Lift the bike a few centimetres and let it drop onto its tyres.
Where does the rattle come from?
Squeeze the front brake hard and gently rock the bike forwards and back, with the fingers of your other hand round the joint where the fork meets the front of the frame, just below the handlebars.
Do you feel or hear a clunk there?
Look where the wheel fixes to the frame.
Is its lever folded flat against the frame (or, with no lever, do the axle nuts sit flat against it), and is the gap the same on each side of the tyre?
What are the brakes doing?
- They don’t stop me as well as they should
- The lever pulls nearly to the handlebar, less than a thumb’s width away
- Grinding or scraping when I brake
- They squeal or squeak
- They rub when I’m not braking
- The lever sticks, feels loose or doesn’t spring back
- The bike judders or shudders when I brake at the front
Which brakes does your bike have?
Look at the middle of the wheel.
Squeeze the lever hard.
How does it feel?
Do the brakes still stop you as well as they used to?
Which brakes does your bike have?
Look at the middle of the wheel.
Lift that end of the bike and spin the wheel.
Does the edge of the wheel wobble from side to side as it turns?
Gently squeeze pairs of spokes all the way round the wheel.
Is one broken, or much looser than the rest?
Hold the frame still and push the top of the wheel firmly from side to side.
Does the whole wheel clunk or move?
How big is the wobble?
Look where the wheel fixes to the frame.
Is its lever folded flat against the frame (or, with no lever, do the axle nuts sit flat against it), and is the gap the same on each side of the tyre?
What do you notice?
When do you hear it?
Don’t ride it
A loose pedal arm quickly damages what it fits onto, and one that fails can throw you.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
A loose pedal arm, or worn bearings where the pedal arms turn (the bottom bracket).
- How sure we are
- Needs a look
We can’t tell from here. Someone needs to see the bike.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
It could also need: bottom bracket service or replacement.
Don’t ride it
A pedal working loose can strip the arm’s thread or come off. If the thread is already damaged, a new pedal arm isn’t on spoked yet.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The pedal is probably loose in the arm, or its own bearings are worn.
- How sure we are
- Most likely
This is the usual cause of what you’ve described.
- What to ask for
Pedal fitting or replacement
It could also need: diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The saddle or seatpost probably needs refitting and greasing.
Can wait. Get it fixed when it suits you. If the bike feels wrong in any other way, don’t ride it.
- How sure we are
- One of a few causes
This fits what you’ve described, but so do other things. A Spoke will check before starting.
- What to ask for
Saddle or seatpost fitting
It could also need: diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Creaks while pedalling come from many places: the pedals, shoe cleats, the bottom bracket, the chainring bolts, a wheel’s lever, and sometimes a crack.
It’s hard to place without the bike in front of you.
Get it fixed soon. Until then, ride only if it feels right, and stop if it gets worse. Look over the frame, handlebars and pedal arms for a crack: if you see one, don’t ride it. If you ride clipped in, try ordinary shoes, since worn cleats creak too. If anything starts to feel loose, stop riding it.
- How sure we are
- Needs a look
We can’t tell from here. Someone needs to see the bike.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
It could also need: bottom bracket service or replacement, pedal fitting or replacement, chain clean & lube.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The chain probably needs cleaning and oiling.
Can wait. Get it fixed when it suits you. If the bike feels wrong in any other way, don’t ride it. If it has squeaked for months, it may be worn too: the Spoke can check.
- How sure we are
- Most likely
This is the usual cause of what you’ve described.
- What to ask for
Chain clean & lube
It could also need: chain waxing, drivetrain deep clean.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
A chain this rusty usually needs replacing, and the gears it runs on are often rusty and worn too.
A clean and oil sometimes saves it.
Get it fixed soon. Until then, ride only if it feels right, and stop if it gets worse. A badly rusted chain can snap: pedal gently. A Spoke can tell whether it can be saved and what to buy.
- How sure we are
- Most likely
This is the usual cause of what you’ve described.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
It could also need: chain replacement, chain clean & lube.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
It probably needs a proper clean, which also makes the gears change better.
Can wait. Get it fixed when it suits you. If the bike feels wrong in any other way, don’t ride it.
- How sure we are
- Most likely
This is the usual cause of what you’ve described.
- What to ask for
Drivetrain deep clean
It could also need: chain clean & lube, full clean and detail.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The gears probably need adjusting.
Cables stretch, especially in a new bike’s first few months. A dry chain also makes changing gear sluggish.
Can wait. Get it fixed when it suits you. If the bike feels wrong in any other way, don’t ride it.
- How sure we are
- Most likely
This is the usual cause of what you’ve described.
- What to ask for
Gear adjustment (indexing)
It could also need: chain clean & lube, gear cable & outer replacement, derailleur hanger straighten or replace.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Worn bearings in the bottom bracket or pedals, or the chain running at an angle.
Get it fixed soon. Until then, ride only if it feels right, and stop if it gets worse.
- How sure we are
- Needs a look
We can’t tell from here. Someone needs to see the bike.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
It could also need: bottom bracket service or replacement.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Probably a loose fitting on the mudguard, rack, light or lock mount.
Get it fixed soon. Until then, ride only if it feels right, and stop if it gets worse. If a mudguard or its stays are loose near the spokes, don’t ride it until it’s fixed.
- How sure we are
- Most likely
This is the usual cause of what you’ve described.
- What to ask for
Lights, mudguards, rack or kickstand fitting
Don’t ride it
It gets worse, and affects steering and braking.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Most often a loose headset (the bearings the fork turns in); sometimes the front brake’s mounting or a suspension fork.
- How sure we are
- One of a few causes
This fits what you’ve described, but so do other things. A Spoke will check before starting.
- What it needs
The job: Headset service or replacement
This is a high-risk job, so Spokes don’t offer it yet. Until they do, we recommend taking your bike to a bike shop.
Don’t ride it until it’s been checked.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
A knock at the front is usually the headset, the front brake’s mounting or the front wheel.
- How sure we are
- Needs a look
We can’t tell from here. Someone needs to see the bike.
- What it needs
The job: Headset service or replacement
This is a high-risk job, so Spokes don’t offer it yet. Until they do, we recommend taking your bike to a bike shop.
It could also need: brake adjustment (not on spoked yet).
Don’t ride it
A wheel that isn’t secure can come out. Walk it.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The wheel may not be fully in the frame, or its lever or axle nuts may not be tight.
- How sure we are
- One of a few causes
This fits what you’ve described, but so do other things. A Spoke will check before starting.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
Don’t ride it
A wheel that moves sideways in the frame isn’t safe until someone has looked at it.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The bearings in the middle of the wheel (the hub) may be loose or worn, or the axle broken.
- How sure we are
- Needs a look
We can’t tell from here. Someone needs to see the bike.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
It could also need: hub service.
Don’t ride it until it’s found.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Something has worked loose, and a rattle can be something about to fall off.
- How sure we are
- Needs a look
We can’t tell from here. Someone needs to see the bike.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
Don’t ride it until it stops properly.
Rim brakes are weaker in the wet; if the rims look hollowed where the pads touch, say so: worn rims need replacing.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The pads may be worn or hardened with age, the rims dirty or oily, or the brake needs adjusting.
- How sure we are
- One of a few causes
This fits what you’ve described, but so do other things. A Spoke will check before starting.
- What it needs
The job: Rim brake pad replacement
This is a high-risk job, so Spokes don’t offer it yet. Until they do, we recommend taking your bike to a bike shop.
It could also need: brake adjustment (not on spoked yet).
Don’t ride it
The brake may not stop you when you need it.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
On brakes with a fluid-filled hose, air in the system or a leak; on cable disc brakes, a stretched cable or worn pads.
- How sure we are
- One of a few causes
This fits what you’ve described, but so do other things. A Spoke will check before starting.
- What it needs
The job: Hydraulic disc brake bleed
This is a high-risk job, so Spokes don’t offer it yet. Until they do, we recommend taking your bike to a bike shop.
It could also need: brake adjustment (not on spoked yet), disc brake pad replacement (not on spoked yet).
Don’t ride it
Keep oil and spray away from the discs.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The pads may be worn or glazed (hardened smooth by heat), or oil, lube or cleaning spray may have got onto the pads or disc.
Oily pads usually have to be replaced.
- How sure we are
- One of a few causes
This fits what you’ve described, but so do other things. A Spoke will check before starting.
- What it needs
The job: Disc brake pad replacement
This is a high-risk job, so Spokes don’t offer it yet. Until they do, we recommend taking your bike to a bike shop.
It could also need: disc rotor truing or replacement (not on spoked yet).
Don’t ride it
Brakes that don’t stop you are the most dangerous fault a bike can have.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Worn or dirty pads, or a brake that needs adjusting.
- How sure we are
- Needs a look
We can’t tell from here. Someone needs to see the bike.
- What it needs
The job: Brake adjustment
This is a high-risk job, so Spokes don’t offer it yet. Until they do, we recommend taking your bike to a bike shop.
Don’t ride it until the brake is fixed.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The brake needs adjusting: its cable may have stretched, the pads may be worn down, or, on brakes with a fluid-filled hose, air may have got in.
- How sure we are
- One of a few causes
This fits what you’ve described, but so do other things. A Spoke will check before starting.
- What it needs
The job: Brake adjustment
This is a high-risk job, so Spokes don’t offer it yet. Until they do, we recommend taking your bike to a bike shop.
It could also need: rim brake pad replacement (not on spoked yet), disc brake pad replacement (not on spoked yet), hydraulic disc brake bleed (not on spoked yet), brake cable & outer replacement (not on spoked yet).
Don’t ride it
Braking is weak and the metal damages the wheel or disc.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The pads are probably worn down to the metal, or grit is caught in them.
- How sure we are
- Most likely
This is the usual cause of what you’ve described.
- What it needs
The job: Rim brake pad replacement
This is a high-risk job, so Spokes don’t offer it yet. Until they do, we recommend taking your bike to a bike shop.
It could also need: disc brake pad replacement (not on spoked yet), disc rotor truing or replacement (not on spoked yet).
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Usually the pads sit at a slight angle to the rim, or the rim or pads are dirty.
Can wait. Get it fixed when it suits you. If the bike feels wrong in any other way, don’t ride it. If it stops less well than it did, don’t ride it.
- How sure we are
- One of a few causes
This fits what you’ve described, but so do other things. A Spoke will check before starting.
- What it needs
The job: Brake adjustment
This is a high-risk job, so Spokes don’t offer it yet. Until they do, we recommend taking your bike to a bike shop.
It could also need: rim brake pad replacement (not on spoked yet).
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Usually something on the pads or disc (oil, cleaning spray), new pads not yet worn in, or water.
Get it fixed soon. Until then, ride only if it feels right, and stop if it gets worse. If braking gets weaker, stop riding it.
- How sure we are
- One of a few causes
This fits what you’ve described, but so do other things. A Spoke will check before starting.
- What it needs
The job: Disc brake pad replacement
This is a high-risk job, so Spokes don’t offer it yet. Until they do, we recommend taking your bike to a bike shop.
It could also need: disc rotor truing or replacement (not on spoked yet).
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Dirty or misaligned pads are the usual cause.
Get it fixed soon. Until then, ride only if it feels right, and stop if it gets worse. If braking gets weaker, stop riding it.
- How sure we are
- Needs a look
We can’t tell from here. Someone needs to see the bike.
- What it needs
The job: Brake adjustment
This is a high-risk job, so Spokes don’t offer it yet. Until they do, we recommend taking your bike to a bike shop.
Don’t ride it
The wheel weakens quickly and a loose end can catch. Spokes come in many lengths, so a Spoke measures before you buy.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Probably a broken spoke.
- How sure we are
- Most likely
This is the usual cause of what you’ve described.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
It could also need: broken spoke replacement, wheel truing.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The wheel probably needs truing: tightening and loosening its spokes until it runs straight.
Get it fixed soon. Until then, ride only if it feels right, and stop if it gets worse. A wobble that touches the brake changes how it bites.
- How sure we are
- Most likely
This is the usual cause of what you’ve described.
- What to ask for
Wheel truing
Don’t ride it while it hits the frame or brake.
A new wheel isn’t on spoked yet.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Probably a bent rim, often from a pothole or a knock.
Truing rarely straightens a bent rim; a Spoke can tell whether it will, or whether the rim or wheel needs replacing.
- How sure we are
- One of a few causes
This fits what you’ve described, but so do other things. A Spoke will check before starting.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
It could also need: wheel truing.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The brake is probably off-centre or a pad is sticking; on disc brakes the disc may be slightly bent.
Get it fixed soon. Until then, ride only if it feels right, and stop if it gets worse. Don’t ride it if it doesn’t stop you well, if a rim brake pad touches the tyre (it can wear through it quickly), or if the wheel knocks when you push it sideways.
- How sure we are
- One of a few causes
This fits what you’ve described, but so do other things. A Spoke will check before starting.
- What it needs
The job: Brake adjustment
This is a high-risk job, so Spokes don’t offer it yet. Until they do, we recommend taking your bike to a bike shop.
It could also need: disc rotor truing or replacement (not on spoked yet).
Don’t ride it
A brake that sticks on or won’t come on is dangerous.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The brake cable may be rusty or frayed, or the lever or brake loose or needing a service.
- How sure we are
- One of a few causes
This fits what you’ve described, but so do other things. A Spoke will check before starting.
- What it needs
The job: Brake cable & outer replacement
This is a high-risk job, so Spokes don’t offer it yet. Until they do, we recommend taking your bike to a bike shop.
It could also need: brake adjustment (not on spoked yet).
Don’t ride it
Steering that sticks can make you fall.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The headset bearings are probably worn or over-tight.
- How sure we are
- One of a few causes
This fits what you’ve described, but so do other things. A Spoke will check before starting.
- What it needs
The job: Headset service or replacement
This is a high-risk job, so Spokes don’t offer it yet. Until they do, we recommend taking your bike to a bike shop.
Don’t ride it
The bolts need tightening to the right setting, so it isn’t a quick fix to do yourself.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Probably knocked out of line, often in a fall, or the bolts have loosened.
- How sure we are
- Most likely
This is the usual cause of what you’ve described.
- What it needs
The job: Stem or handlebar swap
This is a high-risk job, so Spokes don’t offer it yet. Until they do, we recommend taking your bike to a bike shop.
It could also need: headset service or replacement (not on spoked yet).
Don’t ride it until it’s been checked: a bent fork can fail.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Most often a fork or frame knocked out of line, sometimes a wheel not centred in the frame or a soft tyre.
- How sure we are
- Needs a look
We can’t tell from here. Someone needs to see the bike.
- What it needs
We recommend taking your bike to a bike shop to be inspected.
Don’t ride it until it’s been checked.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
A shake at speed can come from a loose headset, a loose or bent wheel, the load you’re carrying, or a bent fork or frame.
- How sure we are
- Needs a look
We can’t tell from here. Someone needs to see the bike.
- What it needs
The job: Headset service or replacement
This is a high-risk job, so Spokes don’t offer it yet. Until they do, we recommend taking your bike to a bike shop.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
That’s normal: it’s the part of the back wheel that lets you roll without pedalling.
Nothing to fix.
If the bike feels wrong in any other way, don’t ride it.
- How sure we are
- Most likely
This is the usual cause of what you’ve described.
- What it needs
Nothing to book.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Something in the tyre, a brake or disc touching at one point, a loose spoke, or a sensor magnet.
Get it fixed soon. Until then, ride only if it feels right, and stop if it gets worse.
- How sure we are
- Needs a look
We can’t tell from here. Someone needs to see the bike.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
It could also need: wheel truing.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
Possibly worn or dry bearings in the hub, though a rumble can come from elsewhere.
Get it fixed soon. Until then, ride only if it feels right, and stop if it gets worse.
- How sure we are
- Needs a look
We can’t tell from here. Someone needs to see the bike.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
It could also need: hub service.
Don’t ride it
You can’t ride it like this: walk it.
This is based only on your answers. Nobody has seen your bike. If you’re not sure it’s safe, don’t ride it.
- What might be wrong
The part of the back hub that grips when you pedal isn’t catching.
It’s more common in the cold or with old grease. On hub gears, the gear may be stuck between two.
- How sure we are
- One of a few causes
This fits what you’ve described, but so do other things. A Spoke will check before starting.
- What to ask for
Diagnosis: what’s wrong and what to order
It could also need: hub service, cassette or freewheel replacement, gear adjustment (indexing).
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What usually causes it
- The gears probably need adjusting.
- The chain probably needs cleaning and oiling.
- A chain this rusty usually needs replacing, and the gears it runs on are often rusty and worn too.
- It probably needs a proper clean, which also makes the gears change better.
- The pedal is probably loose in the arm, or its own bearings are worn.
- Probably a loose fitting on the mudguard, rack, light or lock mount.
- The saddle or seatpost probably needs refitting and greasing.
- A loose pedal arm, or worn bearings where the pedal arms turn (the bottom bracket).
- Creaks while pedalling come from many places: the pedals, shoe cleats, the bottom bracket, the chainring bolts, a wheel’s lever, and sometimes a crack.
- Worn bearings in the bottom bracket or pedals, or the chain running at an angle.
The checker gives general information from your answers. It isn’t an inspection and doesn’t tell you a bike is safe. Nothing here limits liability the law doesn’t let us limit, including for death or personal injury caused by negligence.